If any of you have read this blog before you know exactly what we did this morning.  If not here is a quick re-cap, sunrise, coffee, breakfast & fun, the same as each and every morning on Eleuthera.   Although D and J were moving a little slower than usual after their late night around the beach bonfire last night.

    After breakfast we decided we needed one more beach outing before our trip was over.  We packed up the cooler and all our gear and hopped in the car and headed to one of our favorite beaches.  No we won't tell you which one, as I said before discovering them on your own in half the fun!! 

    We had gone to this particular beach once already this trip, but it was during the cold front so we were not able to spend as much time as we would have liked in the water.  Today was absolutely perfect, it was calm and sunny, and the water temperature seemed a lot more comfortable than it had just a week or so prior. 

    We spent a leisurely two+ hours snorkeling about, taking it all in.  This was the longest non-stop snorkel trip for S and I so far.   The boys brought their spears just in case, but they were not entirely fixated on spearing like usual.   It was a good thing they did though, as D got a nice schoolmaster and J a large Margate.  We had been seeing a lot of Margate's this trip, but had not been able to get very close to them and we were unsure if they were good eating or not.  After our last sighting I Google searched them and found they were perfectly edible.  When J finally got close enough to one he jumped on the opportunity to spear it for dinner.  It wound up tasting very similar to crab.    

    As we were just starting to tucker out and work our way to shore a small barracuda showed up and starting pestering me.  I had forgot to wear my dive gloves so it is possible it was attracted to my ring or maybe just my feminine whiles, but it was definitely getting way to close for comfort.  D and S love barracuda and it was a small enough one to be safe to eat (according to a local guide) so J asked if he could spear it.  I gave him the go ahead, since it was down to spear it or I desperately flee to the kayak, before I lost a finger.  He quickly snuck in and rescued me from the pesky barracuda.  We all decided to call it quits after that and worked our way back to shore. 

    We were all pretty tuckered out by the time we got to shore, and getting sick of sick of salami and turkey sandwiches so we decided to pack up for the day and head to the Beach House for a little late lunch.   It was perfect timing as the clouds just started rolling in as we were leaving the beach.   We made a quick run to Burrows for some ice to keep our fish cool and a few more provisions to get us through our last couple of days then we jotted off to the Beach House.  We all had grouper sandwiches, which were excellent and S and I had their signature margaritas which were also delicious. 

    After a huge late lunch we all waddled our way back to the car, and headed back to DaVilla.  We took it pretty easy for the next few hours, then at sunset decided to grab a bottle of wine and out towels and head across the road to Alabaster Beach to watch the sunset.  It was a serenely quiet and calm evening.  So calm that we had forgotten about our little no-seeum friends.  As soon as we parked ourselves on or towels they began eating us alive.  Suddenly an evening swim seemed like a great idea.  Even with the dimming light you could see way out into the shallow water.  It looked clear of critters so we went for it.  It was a fantastic swim, there is just something amazing about swimming in that low light.  Luckily none of us became shark bait and we had a fantastic time. 

    Once we left the water the no-seems went after us with a vengeance, so we grabbed the wine and hightailed it back to DaVilla.   D cooked us up the Margate and Barracuda for dinner with yellow rice and salad.  I had reached my maximum fish intake for the trip and could not even bare to take another bite.   I guess that is a good sign right, ate so much of a good thing you just don't want anymore.   I wish I could say the same about spending time on Eleuthera, but I will always want more. 

        It was a lovely second morning at DaVilla.  J and I woke up early and leisurely sipped our coffee while enjoying yet another spectacular sunrise.  We knew it was our last week so we were doing our best to slow time and savor each and every moment. 

 After a pretty relaxing morning J and D headed out with the kayak to the other reef for a little spearfishing while S and I each chose opposite directions went on our own little private beach walk.  The nice thing about the location of DaVilla is you can walk unimpeded for miles in either direction.        It was really just a nice mellow, relaxing morning on Eleuthera.  Even the human hummingbird (J) had soaked in so much of that Eleuthera feeling that he was relaxed enough to take a mid day nap in the hammock.  Look I have evidence...

    After his nap J was fully recharged, so we decided to head out for a little adventure before our evening dinner reservations at the Front Porch.  D and S had chosen to have an at home date that evening while J and I decided to go out on the town. 
    Our first stop was Ronnie's to check J's numbers.  He lost, but we still had a fun trying to learn the game.  We ran into Shauna Knowles, who had catered our wedding 3 years prior.  We caught up with her for a little while, learning how busy her catering business has become.  If you get a chance stop by her restaurant for lunch, The Harbour Inn on Cupids Cay.  Great spot to get some take-a-way.  She has daily specials and lots of choices.  You pick your meats and sides then pay by the scoop.  It is really good and super affordable.  
    Well anyway Ronnie's was hopping with people dropping in grabbing a few beers to go, for the Easter Monday beach celebrations scattered along the island.  Shauna, along with many other Ronnie's patrons told us to head down to Alabaster beach and check it out, so we did.  
    The entire beach from one end to the other was full of families celebrating the Easter holiday.  There were multiple BBQ areas set up offering food to all the families, I am assuming they were set up by the local churches.  J and I went for a walk up and down the beach checking out the festivities and exchanging friendly greeting with many of the families.  It was obviously still family hour while we were there, but I heard that it turns into a big party in the evening after all the children go home.

    As we were walking back to the car we ran into another group of visitors who had spotted the Kalik bottles in our hands.  They had arrived on Easter Sunday and were having trouble finding food and drink since almost everywhere was closed on Sunday and Monday for the Easter holiday.  We gave them a few pointers on places that might still be open, then headed on our way.
    We thought that we would spend more time at Alabaster than we actually did so we arrived in Hatchet Bay about an hour or so before our dinner reservation.  We had not spent much time in Hatchet Bay before so we decided to explore a little.  We slowly cruised through town and wound up at the Hatchet Bay Easter Monday celebration.  The people of Hatchet Bay were even more welcoming than the ones at Alabaster.  Despite the smaller community and smaller beach it seemed to be a much livelier celebration.  They had the music bumping and everyone was super friendly and waved and said hello as we passed by.    

    After a quick stop at the beach we headed to Da Spott, a great little local bar in Hatchet Bay.  We sat around chatting with the bartender and patrons hearing all sorts of fascinating stories about the portraits above the bar and all the Spots that have come and gone.  Spot is the the resident potcake and we met Spot #3, or maybe Spot #4.  The latest Spot was just a few months old and absolutely adorable.   After a couple of cocktails and lots of puppy love from Spot we were famished and definitely ready for our highly anticipated dinner at The Front Porch. 

     It was the waitress's first night ever, so I cannot say the service was that great but she was a sweetheart and the food was AMAZING!!   We sat out on the deck and watched the sunset, then the distant lightning after the sun had gone down, while Francis serenaded us with Bob Marley songs from the kitchen. 
    We had an appetizer of conch and grouper and then crab legs for our entree.  It was hands down the best meal we have ever had on Eleuthera, if not the best meal we have ever had.  The conch was cooked like I had never seen before, it was sauteed in a mild almost citrucy tasting sauce.  It was so tender and delicious, I don't think I have ever eaten anything so divine.
    As we were getting ready to leave our new friends from the beach came in for dinner.   They had managed to squeeze in at the last minute and we were very pleased to see that they had not only found someplace open for dinner, but that they had made such a fabulous choice.  We highly recommended the conch and crab legs, of course.  I really hope they enjoyed their meal as much as we did. 
    After we paid J popped his head into the kitchen to commend Francis on the excellent meal and his superb singing skills.  He is a genuinely friendly guy and we chatted for a while till he had to get back to the kitchen and cook for the large group that just arrived (our friends from the beach). 
    As we drove home a huge thunderstorm passed over the top of us.  There is something about the storms on Eleuthera.  There is no light pollution and it gets so dark that the lightning is just amazing to see.   It's like there is nothing else out there but these giant streaks of light over the ocean.  I was really glad I was not driving so I could enjoy the show. 
   J and I returned to DaVilla with an absolutely blissful feeling.  It was such an amazing day, we really had a little taste of everything that makes Eleuthera so special.   The warm, welcoming, amazing people along with mother nature in all it's glory.   We could not have asked for anything more. 

    It was our first morning at DaVilla and I was super excited about watching the sunrise on the Atlantic side.  I had hoped to wake up before the sun started to rise in order to get a pot of coffee started but I woke a little later than anticipated.   Luckily D had beaten me by a few minutes and had already made coffee so I was able to grab a cup and catch the sunrise.    Nothing makes me happier than slowly sipping a cup of coffee and watching the sunrise.   It is such a magical and peaceful time for me, savoring those last few moments before the day begins. 

    It was fairly breezy on the Atlantic for Easter Sunday so snorkeling in front of DaVilla was pretty much out of the question for the day.   D and S wanted to enjoy our new accommodations so they were not into looking for a calm beach someplace else.  J and I decided to just jot across the road to Alabaster Beach to see if it was calmer and if so do a little bonefishing and check to see if there were any decent snorkeling opportunities around the rocky edges on the far end of the beach.   

     It was low tide and Alabaster beach was dead calm.  We walked up the beach checking out all the areas they had cleared for the Easter Monday celebration.  Then we walked out into the calm water for what seemed like forever.  We did not see a single fish and the water never did seem to get much deeper than out knees, but it was spectacularly beautiful.  I snapped a couple shots of the beach then we headed up the road toward the rocky area.  
    We walked out to the point looking for decent access points to get in and out of the water and any coral formations that might be worth a closer look.  We only found one potential access point that did not look very easy.  We would have given it a try anyway but all we could see was sea grass so we figured it was probably not worth the hassle.  J tried fishing off the deeper edges of the point with no success, so we decided to give up on Alabaster. 
    The night before we had celebrated our move to DaVilla a little more enthusiastically that our alcohol rations for the Easter holiday had allowed for.  We knew all the stores would be closed, especially on Easter Sunday but we thought we would head up to Cupids Cay to see if Ronnie's was open just in case. 

    Good ole Ronnie's they're always open.  We hung around for a hour or so drinking beer and chatting with the locals.  They had a great time trying to teach J about their numbers game.  It is kind of like a Bahamian lottery where you guess a city (3 options?) then three numbers.   You come back the next day to see if your numbers are right.  J played a few numbers and got a ticket for the next day.   We stocked up on goodies on our way out, including a Ronnie's T-shirt, a Monte Cristo cigar (just for the fun of it) and a case of short neck Heinekens, which cost about $5 less than anywhere else.   We got lots of invites to the Easter Monday celebrations and said we would be back the next day to check our numbers.  

    After gawking and fantasizing about a few of the sailboats in the harbor we headed home to DaVilla with our treasures from Ronnie's.   We spent the rest of the day just lounging around DaVilla and going for little beach walks.  Just how a leisurely Easter Sunday should be spent.  We had a nice supper of salad, yellow rice and leftover fish from our exploits at CB.   After dinner J and I lounged in the hammock watching the stars and smoking our cigar.  We decided it was good as far as cigars go, but we are just not cigar smoking folks so a few puffs was all we had in us.  I brushed my teeth about 6 times before bed trying to get the taste out of my mouth, but it was still worth the experience.  

    Today was our big move from Caribbean Blue to DaVilla.   We were sad to leave Caribbean Blue because it had been such a great place and the weather on the Caribbean side had been so perfect the last few days.  But we were also super excited to be moving to the Atlantic side to our splurge house, where we could go for long beach walks and snorkel lively reefs without stepping in a vehicle.  The move was a little bittersweet because it meant we we down to only a week left in our vacation and none of us were thrilled about that realization. 
    Our farewell morning started out spectacularly beautiful, it was calm, clear and perfect.  We even had another pair of dolphins swim by while we were out on the deck enjoying our coffee and watching the tail end of the sunrise.  It was an incredibly serine morning as we just took it easy, soaking in the last of our time at CB.   Luckily we were able to take our time leaving since there was a break between bookings.  The owners graciously allowed us to stay past the typical check out time so we did not have spend 4 hours waiting to check into DaVilla with a car load of stuff.   

     The boys could only take so much down time so not long after breakfast they hopped in the kayak to check Levi Island for any lionfish that dared to return after the previous days hunt (only one was foolish enough).   S and I packed up the last of our things then grabbed our books and lounged around in the sunshine.   As lunch time approached the boys were still nowhere to be seen and we knew if they were out playing that long they would be starving when they finally showed back up.  We were trying to figure out what to make that did not involve messing up the kitchen, since we had already run the dishwasher and packed up all of our dry goods, when we remembered Stubbs BBQ.  We had tried to go every trip but we could never get the timing right.  S and I hopped in the car and made it to Stubbs just before noon so they still had lots of items to choose from.  We got two orders of ribs and two orders of chicken all with conch and rice and coleslaw.   Despite the temptation we managed to pass on all the other sweets and delicious items they had available. 

    When we got back to the house it was around 12:30pm and we could see the kayak way off in the distance making it's way back from Levi Island.  We set our lunch on the counter and got back into our lounge positions while we waited for the boys to finish their long paddle home.  The were ecstatic to find a giant plate of BBQ ribs waiting for them when they got back.  The food from Stubbs was absolutely delicious and we all thoroughly enjoyed our take out lunches.  It was a really nice treat especially after almost two full weeks of sandwiches for lunch. 

    After lunch we had another hour till our 2pm check in at DaVilla so we figured we better get in one last snorkel.  I was still a little sheepish about the jellyfish so S and I put our gear in the kayak and kayaked back out to where we saw the jellyfish-free bait ball the day before.  The boys swam behind us, on the never-ending hunt for more lionfish.  The bait ball was still hanging around the same spot so S jumped in for one last swim with all the baby fish and I decided to just hang out in the kayak.   Before we knew it it was time to start heading back, but the boys managed to bag another lionfish on the way back to the house.  

    By the time we got back to the house it was almost 2pm.  We took one last quick rinse in the outdoor shower, unloaded the fridge and headed to the airport to meet up with Art Nixon (DaVilla's caretaker).  Farewell Caribbean Blue, we thoroughly enjoyed every moment we spent with you!!

    Hello Davilla!!   For almost twice the price DaVilla was definitely twice the size.   Despite it's expansive size DaVilla was not nearly as well stocked as CB, but it made up for it with the amazing view.  The neighbors are very very close but they were nice people and respectful of our privacy and we tried to do the same for them.   After a quick unload and supply evaluation we came up with a little shopping list and the boys headed out to get some of the basic necessities, knowing that we would not have an opportunity for the next two days due to Easter Sunday and Easter Monday.

    As soon as they returned with the supplies the boys quickly made themselves at home.   D grabbed an ice cold Kalik and parked himself in his new favorite spot.  After a few hours of R&R we cooked up a nice meal of BBQ pork chops, baked potatoes and broccoli.   Then we spent the rest of the evening thoroughly enjoying the comfort of our new accommodations. 

    One of our absolute favorite beaches on Eleuthera has always been Whiteland Beach.    We made a short visit to Whiteland at the beginning our trip but it was so windy we could not enjoy it, so we moved on in search of a calmer beach.   We knew we wanted to get back there again before we left and had been waiting patiently for the weather to cooperate.  Whiteland is not sheltered from the wind so you it is best on a dead calm day.  The cold front still had not passed us by so it was still quite cool out, mid 70's, but there was little to no breeze on the Atlantic side so we decided this would be our day to try Whiteland again.   We lounged around the house a little than longer than usual relaxing and enjoying the view while waiting for the weather to warm up a little.  I think we had fully embraced the Eleuthera feeling by this point in our vacation and were really taking things slow.  
    We finally motivated and made it to Whiteland around lunch time.  It was just as beautiful as ever, the wind was calm and the sun was shining, despite a few clouds.   It would have been a perfect day for snorkeling and frolicking in the water, except for the air and water temperature were just so darn cold (by tropical standards).  S and I decided it would be a book day for us as we were not too enthusiastic about getting back in that cold water.    J and D decided maybe if we went for a beach walk we would all warm up enough to get in the water by the time we got back.  The four of us really enjoy our beach walks so we can typically make the best of the cool or windy days as long as the weather is good enough for a long walk on the beach.   
   

    We decided to head to the northern end of the Whiteland were there was a tidal creek system where we had caught a few fish in the past.  It was a beautiful walk!  S and I looked for shells while J and D tried kept their eyes out for bonefish and barracuda.  When we finally got to the end we were sorely disappointed to find that the creek system was no longer there.  It looks as if the last hurricane deposited so much sand at the creek entrance it could no longer flow freely between the ocean and the creek system.  You could see a chain of dead mangroves where the creek had dried up.  This discovery took Whiteland down a notch on our list of favorite beaches.  One of the main things we loved so much about it is it had something for everyone.  Fishing for the guys, a fabulous beach for for walking and lounging, and places to go snorkeling.   Although the snorkeling is not great, there are a few decent spots and it made up for it with the fishing and the spectacularly beautiful beach.  I guess it is just a spectacular beautiful beach with decent snorkeling now, oh well you cant have it all.

   
    After our walk we made some lunch and re-evaluated the possibility of heading into the water to do some snorkeling.  It was a no on all four counts, it was just too darn cold.  After lunch D, S and I sat around, read and listened to the surf while J headed on another beach walk in the opposite direction just to make sure there were not any fish out there he might have missed.  He came back empty handed and we discussed our plans for the rest of the afternoon.   We decided it would be a good night to splurge on dinner out.  We unanimously chose The Beach House.  J and I had our rehearsal dinner there not long after they first opened and they did an amazing job.  We all loved the food and atmosphere so much we make a point of going there at least once every trip.   We decided to head back to Caribbean Blue, clean up and relax a bit then head to the beach house around 6ish.  We had not needed reservations in the past but since they are only open for dinner two nights a week now, we figured we better call and double check.  We called around 4pm hoping for a reservation around 6 or 7pm, but all they had left was 9pm.  We inquired if they left openings for walk in's and they said maybe you will just have to come and wait and see if they can find room for us.  Oops I guess we should have planned better, it is so hard for us to commit to anything on vacation.   We never know when we will feel like going out dinner so reservations tend to be one of the last things on our minds.  We decided we better go a little early just to make sure we got a table.  We arrived a little after 5pm and sat at the bar.  The waitress said if we wanted to eat at the bar we could, but they would stop serving at 5:30 so we needed to order right away.  We were not hungry yet but we figured we better take the opportunity while we could.   It turned out the waitress was wrong and they don't serve food at the bar at all.    That was OK with us since we were not that hungry yet anyway.  We told her we were perfectly happy waiting and taking in the view from the bar until a table came available.   

   
    S and I had a few generously poured glasses of red wine while J and D sampled the limited Bahamian beer variety still debating in which was better Sands or Kalik.  The Rum Runners were playing and we thoroughly enjoyed the music and the atmosphere while we waited.  They eventually managed to find us a table around 7pm.  That worked out perfect for us since that was when we wanted to eat anyway.  We were in no hurry so the wait did not bother us and we were very grateful that they even managed to squeeze us in at all.  I think the only reason they did have room is that the Fish Fry was being held that same night (Thursday) instead of Friday since it was Good Friday.   We definitely now know that you HAVE to make a dinner reservation ahead of time (not a few hours) if you want to eat dinner at The Beach House.  We ordered our favorite, the jumbo shrimp stuffed with goat cheese and wrapped in prosciutto along with some Conch fritters, calamari, grouper fingers and some salads.  W definitely got our fried seafood fill but it was all delicious!!!  
    After a great night and a great meal we headed back to our vehicle and found a little surprise.   When J opened the door there were two giant cockroaches (Palmetto bugs) on the front seat.  He tried to scoop them out but they dashed in the car somewhere.  It was dark and we could not find them again to try and get them out so we did our best to pretend they were not in the car on the way home.  We were very grateful that Caribbean Blue is so close to The Beach House.   We left the car windows open so they could escape and then denied the whole experience happened every time we got back in the car.  Thankfully we never saw them again!!

This was D & S’s first full day back in 2 years and Eleuthera welcomed them "home" with open arms.  D was the first to wake, and as soon as he stepped out on the deck to enjoy his first cup of coffee he was bid good morning by two dolphins just passing by.  When I wandered into the kitchen a few minutes later he had a look of absolute joy on his face.  It was if Eleuthera was saying welcome home D, we love you.   We really could not have asked for a more amazing morning, the weather was absolutely perfect and it was also J and I’s 3rd anniversary.  We considered the entire trip as our anniversary so we did not focus too much on just the one day and instead celebrated it throughout our 3 weeks in paradise.

We started off with a great breakfast provided by D, the master of scrambled eggs and bacon.  After our belly's were full we decided it was just too beautiful a day not to go find a sandy Atlantic beach.    We decided to head back to Parrotfish Beach (nickname) since it had been so spectacular a few days earlier and D & S had been waiting to go back there for two years.  We initially discovered Parrotfish Beach on our first trip to Eleuthera but we never had a calm enough day to snorkel there.   We made it on our second trip but S and I were still a little skiddish in the water so we only checked out some of the closer reefs.  D and J had snorkeled out to the farther reefs and had been talking them up for the last two years so D & S's anticipation was high, just as mine had been a few days earlier when I saw them for the first time myself.   We packed up the cooler and were in the car and ready to roll by 9am.  On the way we made a quick stop at Island Farms since it was fresh bread day and stocked up on all sorts of delicious breads, dressings, sauces, salsa and fresh veggies.

We were at the beach by 10 am and after unloading the car we headed out for a “family snorkel”.   We saw eagle rays, tons of huge parrotfish, trunkfish, filefish, an eel, spectacular coral formations, and so much more.   It was really one of the most amazing snorkels of my life.  It was just a few amazing hours of peaceful tranquility exploring a beautiful undersea world.  The water was chilly but S and I stayed out longer than ever before and had an incredible time.  This was a new beginning of snorkeling for both of us, be had both had some some skittish moments in the past but after experiencing the tranquility of Parrotfish Beach we were new women. 

Eventually we had to come back, not from lack of excitement but because we were just getting too cold and physically could not take much more.  We enjoyed a tasty lunch of turkey and salami sandwiches with Island Farms olive and herb bread, tomatoes and lettuce and a few cerveza’s.  D, S and I were in blissed out relaxation mode at this point but I think J was so excited to have his dive buddy back that turned into a human hummingbird.  As soon as his sandwich was done he was ready to go back out.  D needed a little more sand and Kalik time so J took the kayak out by himself to do a little reef fishing.

He fished from the kayak for about 45 minutes then came back in and grabbed D for another epic snorkel.  S and I decided that books and beer sounded better to us so we stayed put.  I was equally glad to have S around so I could get in some lounge time with my tanning buddy while D kept the human hummingbird company.  The boys paddled the kayak out to a different area to check out some new reefs and wound up staying out there for HOURS! 

They eventually came back in with their catch, another schoolmaster and 2 large lobsters.   They then discovered that when sunblock says water resistant for 90 minutes they mean it and that they needed to come to shore and re-apply more than every couple hours.  They both completely scorched the back of their legs.  They were both confined to wearing pants in the water for a few days and wound up with dive knife tans that lasted the rest of the trip.   After immediately covering their legs we set to cleaning up the giant explosion of gear we had sprawled out on the beach, searched for the lost ring a little more, and then headed home to get cleaned up for the fish fry.

We were all pretty pooped after our big day so we really had to drag ourselves to the fish fry, but we made it just in time for the sunset.   It was the Eleuthera Jazz Festival so it was not the traditional fish fry that we were used to, but we really enjoyed the more casual atmosphere.  We all ordered chicken and coleslaw which was delicious as usual but I really miss the conch fritters from the pre-pavilion days.  D bought a round of rum bubbas, but thankfully spared me when I resisted, S's resistance on the other hand was ignored.  I ordered a vodka tonic instead, thinking it would be less toxic but that was not the case and one was all it took to do me in. 

Our first fish fry ever was in 2010 and the high school Junkanoo band had showed up.  We had such a fabulous time that every other fish fry has just not been the same.  They have all been fun but our first fish fry was such and amazing experience that it is hard to top.   We still had a great time and it was a prefect end to a really great day on Eleuthera.